Stories

October at My Mamma: Porcini, Truffles, and the Kitchen We Miss in Italy

By Maria
·
May 27, 2026
·
7 min read

October is the month mamma gets a little homesick. Not for the place exactly — for the smell of it.
In the hills behind the Campania coast, autumn arrives as a scent before anything else: damp earth, woodsmoke,
and mushrooms. The light goes golden and low, the first fogs settle in the valleys, and the whole way of
cooking shifts from the bright food of summer to something deeper and slower. Here in Sarasota, October still
comes in on a warm Gulf breeze with the palms barely noticing the season has turned. So this is a story about
the kitchen we miss in Italy at this time of year — and the one we build here anyway, with porcini, truffles,
and a little of that autumn soul on every plate.

What October smells like back home

If you’ve never spent an Italian autumn, let mamma paint it. The summer tomatoes give way; the markets
fill with earthier things — wild mushrooms, chestnuts roasting on street corners, the first pressing of new
olive oil so green it’s almost cloudy. In the woods, families go looking for porcini after the rain, walking
quietly with a basket and a knife, the way they have for generations. The cooking turns inward and warm:
long-simmered sauces, mushrooms folded into pasta, braises that fill the house with steam while the windows
fog. It’s a slower, cosier kind of eating, and it’s tied completely to the turning of the season. That’s the
rhythm mamma grew up inside, and the one her body still expects when October comes around.

The porcini: king of the autumn woods

If autumn in Italy had a flavour, it would be the porcino. These are the great wild mushrooms of the
season — meaty, deeply savoury, with an earthiness that tastes like the forest floor in the best possible
way. Fresh, they’re sliced thick and seared, or folded into a risotto, or laid over pasta where their dark
juices become the sauce. Dried, they’re a pantry treasure all year: a small handful, soaked, brings their
woodsy depth to a sauce in the dead of any month. They are not a delicate ingredient you have to coax —
they’re bold and generous, and they make a simple dish taste like someone’s nonna spent all afternoon on it.
For mamma, the first porcini of the season is the true start of autumn, more than any date on a calendar.

The truffle: a little goes a long way

And then there’s the truffle — autumn’s quiet luxury. You don’t need much; that’s the whole point. A few
shavings over hot pasta or eggs, and the aroma fills the whole room before the fork even moves. A truffle
doesn’t shout, it perfumes; it turns the plainest plate into an occasion. We keep that spirit on our own
menu here in Sarasota — you’ll find fresh truffle as something you can add to a dish when you want to make an
ordinary evening feel like a celebration, the same small magic mamma grew up with. It’s the most generous
way in the world to spend a little: one ingredient, shaved at the table, and suddenly dinner is something
you’ll remember.

Mamma’s tip 🍄

Cooking mushrooms at home? Don’t crowd the pan and don’t rush them. Give them room and let them sit
until they’re deeply golden before you stir — crowded mushrooms steam and go grey and sad, while patient
ones turn rich and nutty. And salt them at the end, or they weep their water too soon.

October in Florida: the kitchen we miss, and the one we build

Now, mamma won’t tell you a tall tale — there are no foggy woods to wander in Sarasota in October, and the
Gulf Coast doesn’t do a proper autumn chill. We can’t send anyone out with a basket after the rain. But here
is the thing about an Italian kitchen: it was always built to carry a season with it, even far from home.
Dried porcini travel. Truffles travel. The slow, earthy way of cooking travels in the hands and the memory.
So while the weather outside our door stays kind and warm, inside the kitchen we turn the dial toward autumn
anyway — richer sauces, mushrooms, the deeper and more comforting end of the menu — because that’s what the
month asks for, no matter what the thermometer says. We miss the Italian October. So we cook it.

How autumn changes the way we cook

The shift is real, even on the Gulf Coast. Summer cooking is bright and quick — fresh tomatoes, raw oil,
herbs torn in at the last second. Autumn cooking is patient and layered: things that simmer, things that
brown, sauces with mushrooms and depth, a little more richness on the plate to match the lower light. It’s
food that wants you to sit down and stay a while, the kind of meal that pairs with a glass of red and a long
conversation. Even when October in Sarasota looks like summer, a plate of earthy, slow-cooked food has a way
of conjuring the season — a little autumn you can taste, if not feel.

On the menu this October

If you want to taste a bit of that Italian autumn without the flight, this is the month to come hungry.
Look for the earthier, mushroom-forward dishes on our menu — the scaloppine with
mushrooms is exactly the kind of comforting, savoury plate the season calls for — and treat yourself to a
little fresh truffle shaved over the top when you want the evening to feel special. It’s the closest thing to
an October evening back home that we can put on a plate in Sarasota, and honestly, after a few bites, you
stop missing the fog.

Mamma’s tip 🌰

Order the richer dishes the Italian way — not rushed, with a glass of red and no plans afterward.
Autumn food rewards lingering. The whole point of this kind of cooking is that it gives you a reason to
slow down and stay at the table a little longer than you meant to.

Beyond mushrooms: the other tastes of an Italian October

Porcini and truffles get the headlines, but an Italian autumn is a whole pantry of quieter pleasures, and
mamma loves them just as much. There are the chestnuts — roasted until the shells split, peeled with burnt
fingertips, sweet and smoky, or ground into flour for rustic cakes and pasta in the mountains. There’s the
pumpkin and the winter squash, turned into silky soups and folded into filled pasta with a little sage and
butter, all gold and comfort. And there’s the new olive oil of the season, the olio nuovo — that
first cloudy, peppery pressing that Italians treat like an event, drizzled over warm bread and grilled
vegetables just to taste how alive it is.

October is also the tail of the grape harvest, the vendemmia, when the wine of the year is being
made and the whole countryside smells faintly of crushed fruit. It’s no accident that autumn cooking pairs so
naturally with a deeper glass of red — the heartier food and the bigger wines belong to the same season, the
same instinct to warm up from the inside as the light fades earlier each evening. A bowl of mushroom pasta, a
glass of something dark and honest, a table of people in no hurry: that’s the whole of an Italian October in
one sentence.

We can’t bring you the chestnut man on the corner or the smell of the vendemmia drifting over the hills.
But we can bring the spirit of all of it to the plate — the earthiness, the comfort, the unhurried warmth —
and let it do what autumn food does best, which is to make you want to stay a little longer and pour one more
glass. That, more than any single ingredient, is the season mamma misses and the one we cook toward all month.

Come in from the warm — pull up a chair

October is mamma’s gentle reminder that some things are worth slowing down for. We may be a long way from
the hills of Campania, and the Florida sun may not have read the calendar — but the autumn kitchen is alive
and well on the North Trail, in every earthy, unhurried plate we send out this month. Come and taste the
season with us: see what we’re cooking, or simply come sit down at
My Mamma and let an autumn dinner do what it has always done — gather people, warm them, and
make a Tuesday feel like an occasion. Bring the family, bring an appetite, and let mamma feed you the way
October was always meant to be eaten — slowly, generously, and surrounded by the people you love.

Taste an Italian autumn in Sarasota

Porcini, truffle, and the slow, earthy flavors of October — brought to our table even under the Florida
sun. Pull up a chair.

See this month’s menu

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